Although Americans
alone consume millions of dollars worth of oysters each year, the myth still
prevails that the bivalves are safe to eat only during months containing an ‑R‑
which is a whopper even bigger than all those fish stories about diners finding
pearls in their oysters.
The first mention of
the galley tale in literature is in one William Butler's Diet's Dry Dinner (1599). Wrote Butler, without explaining why: "It is unreasonable and
unwholesome in all the months that have an R in their name to eat
oysters." So prevalent did this belief become that it was celebrated in
the poem "The Man Who Dared" by Stoddard King: "Let's sing a
song of glory to Themistocles O'Shea, Who ate a dozen oysters on the second
day of May." Scientists have been trying to dispel the old wise tale for
years, but it still finds its way into print in one guise or another. Many of
the origins of the hoary story have been lost in history. It is true that the
myth derives partly from times when poor refrigeration resulted in spoilage
during the months containing no "R's", but more important is the fact
that the flat European oyster (0strea
edulis), one of the 100 oyster
species, is not desirable for human food during the "non‑R" months. Ostrea edulis is unique in that its young are retained by the mother until tiny shells
are developed and it is the presence of these gritty shells while it is spawning
that makes the European oyster undesirable in the summer.
Such is definitely not
the case with American oysters ‑
Crassostrea virginica (Atlantic coast)
and Ostrea lurida (Pacific coast) ‑ which do not incubate their young but
disperse them in the water where they are fertilized outside the organism.
American oysters can be eaten safely at any time of the year. Although it is
true that no mollusk is at its best during the late summer months, this is no
reason for the oyster market to practically shut down from May to September.
Actually, American oysters reach the peak of perfection in May and June, months
without an "R" between them, are fatter and taste better then because
they begin to store glycogen and animal starch in preparation for summer spawning.
During late summer and early autumn oyster flavor declines, due to the
expenditure of the glycogen, the meat skimpier and the nectar watery, yet the
traditional oyster harvest time is still in the fall ‑ because the demand is
seasonal and the prices are highest at this time. If the oyster harvest time
were changed to late spring, oyster lovers would not only enjoy meatier,
tastier mollusks, but the entire oyster industry would reap important economic
benefits.
So, for the good of all
concerned, the piscatorial prevaricators should be put down permanently.
Remember that oysters "R" good anytime and quote to any skeptic the
words of the foremost authority in the field: "Oyster mortalities usually
are heaviest in summer," says the U.S. Bureau of Commercial Fisheries,
"and losses of 25 to 50 per cent are not uncommon. Thus, an earlier
harvest could result in obtaining more bushels of oysters in a given area.
Further, because oysters are fatter in the spring, there would be a much
greater yield of meat in each bushel harvested. The tradition of the fall
harvest is unlikely to change, however, until enough diners become aware that
the "R‑month" rule is a myth and start asking for oysters all year
long.
A few oyster recipes
Super Oyster Stew,
Oysters en Brochette